Zambia Trip 2008: Dr Livingstone I presume ...

Coal market in one of the compounds

On Good Friday morning we set out from Lusaka for our Easter Weekend excursion. Our first destination was a place called Siansowa located on the banks of Lake Kariba.. Here we had rented two comfortable cottages. We enjoyed two wonderful days relaxing, reading and playing a lot of cards. They also had a beautiful pool on the property where we spent a good deal of time both afternoons. On our first evening we enjoyed a fantastic sunset cruise on the lake. We had the boat entirely to ourselves and Charlene had thoughtfully brought along ample supplies of delicious party drinks and snacks.

Zambian fishing on Lake Kariba

Wielers enoying the cruise

Brothers hanging out together on the lake

Captain Erin takes the wheel

God's light breaks through the clouds

The Bush Camp where we were staying was also located next to a huge commercial crocodile farm. So on our second morning, we took a tour. This was incredibly interesting and entertaining as we were shown how the crocs are raised from eggs taken from the wild, to full grown crocs of about 3-5 years. The crocs are raised for their skins that are largely sold to Asia and then turned into beautiful Gucci handbags and belts. We were fortunate enough to be there on the day they were preparing the food that they feed the crocs. Let’s just say this was not a mouth watering recipe. The recipe for Crocodile food is roughly as follows: one tonne fresh Kapenta (a small sardine like fish), boiled maise, approximately two tonnes hacked up chickens that have been jammed through an industrial sized meat grinder and some blood for flavor (and I’m not joking either). And yes, we got to witness the “chefs” in action. The tour concluded with dramatic tour of the lagoons where the oldest and largest crocs live. It was very exciting to watch as these crocs were fed huge hunks of raw meat.

How to make croc food

A few of the crocs being raised for skins

Croc buddies share a hug

Big breeder crocs don't like to share

Mmmmm carpaccio

Then it was off to beautiful Victoria Falls. It was a cozy ride as all four girls were sharing the back seat of the truck. Unfortunately for us, the road was riddled with more pot holes, and bigger pot holes than I have ever seen on any Canadian road in spring. We stayed in another fantastic place called Jolly Boys which is a haven for South African back-packers. Imagine beautiful tanned young bodies everywhere dressed in skimpy Bohemian style clothing, tattoos and dreadlocks. It was the kind of scene that made even me feel old. But, we tried to blend in as best we could and had a great time.

Double rainbow in the mist of the falls

A view of the bridge to Zimbabwe

The next day we walked around Victoria Falls. The Falls are much longer and wider than Niagara Falls. Since it is the end of the rainy season, the falls were in full force and we got completely soaked. The spray coming off the falls alone was so powerful, it made us feel like someone was aiming a hose right at us. It was an incredible experience. The highlight of the day was a micro flight over the falls. Erin, Danica, Richard and I all took the flight which transported us, via Ultra light, a couple thousand feet into the air to observe the falls in their full glory from above. I think it was probably the most exciting thing I have ever done.

A small slice of the falls

Heidi and her amazing flying machine

Sadly, today was our last full day in Zambia. We spent the morning doing laundry and packing up. In the afternoon we were able to have one touching encounter with the people we have met here. Charlene took us to a Project called Chikumbuso. I will try to keep the description short for, what was for me, one of the most moving experiences of our trip.

A few of the women at Chikumbuso

Chikumbuso means to remember, and it is the name of a project here for widows and single women in the compound of Ngombe. The program was begun by an American woman named Linda. She recognized the many needs for women in this compound and created her own N.G.O. to support them. To make a long story short, this project helps women come together and crochet purses and beach bags out of used plastic bags. The program has had such an impact on the seven women who began it, that it has grown exponentially since it started. Now, it includes about 75 women making bags, a school for about 250 of the women’s children who come, a lunch program and now a tailoring school. During our tour we were interrupted by the sound of a group of women singing. We joined the group and found all the women who were crocheting bags having a time of sharing together. The sound of their voices united immediately brought me to tears. The women sang, clapped and danced and then shared their stories. It was powerful to hear how this project had changed their lives and their children’s lives. One woman shared that before she joined Chikumbuso, she was contemplating suicide because she had no way of feeding her children. She now feels free and always has food for her family. Their testimonials demonstrated how incredibly strong in spirit these women are. As well, it became clear that they shared a strong community spirit as they encouraged each other to share what they had with the many other women who are still in dire need. The afternoon concluded with more singing and dancing and we were all pulled in to the mix. The old mama’s got a good laugh out of watching Richard join in the dancing. It was wonderful. Needless to say I spent all the rest of our money on purses to bring home. I will try to send more information about this project for anyone who might be interested in learning more or supporting them. You can see a video of the ladies dancing and singing at Chikumbuso here.